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  1. Now what!?? What’s the next best step – short of sanding it all off…

    I’ve sanded off the heavy rust, applied hydrochloric acid, then phosphoric acid x2, lightly sanded again, then washed with a highly diluted solution of phosphoric acid combined with detergent, then pressure washed, and finally applied Rustoleum Rust Stop Rust Reformer. I read for hours… and hours… and hours… and more hours to get a handle on all of the different chemicals (plain and mixed in various products) and downstream impacts on future top-coatings. Finally, I pulled the trigger on the Rustoleum “Rust Stop” just to see what would happen. It was too much info altogether and so I didn’t read about the “Rust Stop”… a little burnt out on “learning”, I guess. Plus, it is a practice project – a large, old, metal device I use at home. That said, before getting ready to apply an acrylic lacquer primer (2 part), I read again. Afterall, I do still want to it look good and last. Since the metal is bare in some spots (no rust), deeply pitted with remaining rust that’s been partially or completely altered from the phosphatization phase, and left with some surface rust on around 30% of it, what should I do. Due to the previous accumulated rust and subsequent treatments, the material was very porous prior to the iron phosphate conversions. Now, the whole thing has been sprayed with “Rust Stop” Rust Reformer in a single thick coat (even running in very saturated spots).

    I’m not going to sand the whole thing again. Partly on account of time. Partly because I do want to try something that can mitigate the issue of applying the rust reformer to these four different types of surfaces that lie underneath (deep rust, surface rust, ferric phosphate, and bare metal). Just to really nail it home, there are sections where the alkyd enamel paint below still remains (after it was treated with HCL acid and Phosphoric acid washes with the chemicals staying on there for 24 hours < X). A final note, all acids were removed using a heavily diluted solution of phosphoric acid with detergent added to it which was sprayed off with a pressure washer leaving only some bits of the very hard to remove white scale from the phosporic acid applications.

    • I’m in the same boat. My old car frame was a mix of just about every degree of rusty texture, intact paint, and bare metal. To me, it’s unconscionable to leave thick scale that can otherwise be knocked down to slight pitting just to keep as much rust on the part as possible for Rust Reformer to act on. I couldn’t see treating each situation differently using a different primer, so I primed it all with Rust Reformer and topcoated with Rust-Oleum satin black after at least 24 hours.

      A year later, so far, so good, though the car will never again be subject to the harsh environments that caused the frame to rust in the first place.

      One thing about Rust Reformer that impressed me is it’s chemical resistance once cured. I had to do some unplanned brake work after refinishing my combination valve, and the brake fluid I couldn’t catch took the cast iron engine paint right off, but left the Rust Reformer underneath intact.

  2. Great article. I have a 61 Willy’s pickup that needs this. Is it necessary to apply a finish coat of paint? Or is the rust reformer sufficient? Thanks.

  3. My preference is rustoleum ” rusty metal primer” for metals that range from clean to scale, and then top it with rustoleum paint.

  4. Everywhere I am reading says that the Reformer needs to be coat. I still trying to find out with what. Should I buy a 2K primer and apply over it? I think it us one of those “gray areas”, but I still looking for the info. My idea is to remove the extra rust (flakes, bubbles, etc),applying 2 coats on the parts, and after drying/cure, apply a 2k primer on top for protection (possibly the Reformer (black) with 2k primer also black).

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